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Semi-Homemade Desserts By Sandra Lee 205 pages; Color Photographs. Large Format Glossy Soft Cover Miramax Books, Hyperion, New York, New York ©2003 Reviewed by Bess R. Emanuel Comments by Chef John J. Vyhnanek |
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Having tried several of the recipes in Sandra Lee's Semi-Homemade cookbook and finding them surprisingly tasty, I was ready to try and sample some of her desserts. Her premise in her cookbooks is that today's eaters are too busy (or not knowledgeable enough about cooking) to start from scratch, so why bother? With some creative combining of mixes and pre-made sauces and such, reasonable versions of various desserts can be made quickly and easily. The two recipes I tried produced mixed results. First up was Eric McCormack's (Will of "Will and Grace") "Amazing Chocolate Almond Biscotti". This recipe used a cake mix as its base, which eliminated the mixing of a few ingredients, but otherwise didn't save much time from the "from scratch" version I am used to baking. The baking time suggested was 35 minutes, which I followed, but the dough was very underdone at that point, even though the proverbial toothpick came out clean when inserted. Unfortunately, I didn't find this out until I sliced the log into the ½" biscotti slices. The second baking to dry out the slices did partially fix this problem; however, the basic recipe, while tasty, produces a dough which is too crumbly for biscotti. I also tried Sandra's version of Boston Cream Pie. This recipe combined pound cake, vanilla instant pudding and fudge topping to approximate the famous "pie/cake" from Boston's Parker House. Maybe my problem is that I've had the real thing at the Parker House, so this version paled in comparison. However, if you are looking for a shortcut to this dessert, here's your roadmap. These recipes do offer quicker versions of classics, although some of the cakes seem to take up in decorating time what they save in cooking time. And, as in Sandra's previous book, I still have the concern that the amount of fat and preservatives involved in using these prepared ingredients is too high. But when you're talking desserts and sweets, maybe people don't care! Good Cooking and Chef John J. Vyhnanek have a lot of experience making Boston Cream Pie. When John was Executive Chef of the Ritz-Carlton Boston he made hundreds of these pies along side of his pastry chefs. "You make a lot of pies in 11 years", he said. Traditionally you start with a genoise, make pastry cream and a chocolate fondant to top the pie. We used to soak the layers with simple syrup (cooked sugar and water with flavoring), whip the pastry cream with additional cream, assemble it in layers and then top it with the chocolate fondant. It then sat in the refrigerator for several hours to firm before you could even think of cutting it. Once for a party of 300 we made 40 pies! The recipe in this book isn't labor intensive or intimidating---anyone can make it. Surprisingly it tastes really good! Good Cooking finds this book to be just the right thing for easy, quick and trouble-free desserts. No fuss and no muss, a good buy! However if you are a pastry chef you might have some reservations. "Copyright © 2003 Sandra Lee" From the Stars SectionEric McCormack's Amazing Chocolate Almond BiscottiOn the left is the version from the book and on the right the results we had!
Makes about 28 biscotti 1 box (1 8.25-ounce) dark chocolate fudge or devil's food cake mix,
Duncan Hines Moist Deluxe® Preparation: Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 heavy large baking sheets with
parchment paper. Combine cake mix, flour, melted butter, eggs, and
almond extract in large bowl. Beat for 2 minutes, or until dough forms.
Knead almonds into dough. Scrape dough onto 1 prepared baking sheet and
form dough into 13-inch-long log that is 3 inches wide. Bake for 35
minutes, or until toothpick inserted into center of biscotti comes out
clean. Cool for 35 minutes. Using serrated knife, cut log crosswise into
1/2-inch-thick slices. Carefully transfer half of biscotti to second
prepared baking sheet. Arrange biscotti cut side down on baking sheets.
Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 200 degrees. Bake for 40 minutes, or
until biscotti are dry. Cool completely (biscotti will harden as they
cool). Boston Cream PieOn the left is the version from the book and on the right the results we had!
Serves 8
Cake and Filling:
1 1/4 cups cold whole milk Glaze: 1/2 cup chocolate hot fudge topping, Hershey's® For the Glaze: Stir chocolate fudge sauce and confectioners/powdered sugar in medium
bowl until smooth. Fold back plastic from atop cake. |