Savor the Southwest, Barbara Pool Fenzel with Jane Horn
223 Pages with 117 recipes; Many color Photos, Paperback Published by Bay
Books San Francisco to accompany the public television series Savor the
Southwest
Reviewed for Good Cooking by Ellen London, December 2005
Southwestern Cuisine is quickly gaining popularity across the United States.
While dining out, we are attracted to its bright bold flavors, but other than
the occasional taco, how many home cooks have added southwestern recipes to
their repertoire? With her public television series "Savor the
Southwest" and accompanying cookbook of the same name, Barbara Pool
Fenzel attempts to make Southwestern cuisine both approachable and enjoyable
for home cooks across the nation.
In addition to her personal favorites Fenzel has compiled recipes from some of
the best chefs of the region. Contributors include James Beard Award winners
and four star chefs. The home cook should not panic however, because this book
was written exclusively with them in mind. As Fenzel writes, the recipes,
"require no special skills for success ... and everything is clearly
explained."
To see how accessible Savor the Southwest recipes could be Good Cooking
attempted to make a quick weeknight dinner. Our main course, Ancho-Glazed
Chicken, was a success. All of the ingredients including the ancho chilies
could be found at our local supermarket. Also the recipe made use of the
ubiquitous boneless skinless chicken breast, which we are always looking for
innovative ways to use.
The dish does require an overnight marinating, but the effort pays off in
moist chicken with intense flavor. The recommended side dish of sauteed chard
is a perfect weeknight recipe. The chard's refreshing flavor and crisp texture
is an ideal accompaniment to the chicken and it literally takes minutes to
prepare.
We finished dinner with South-of-the Border Chocolate Cookies. The dough can
be made a day ahead and kept refrigerated. We shaped the cookies from the
prepared dough and baked them off as we finished dinner. The cookies were a
nice sweet finish to the meal.
Ancho~Glazed Chicken
Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger
Serves 6
The chefs use one of their favorite chiles---the aromatic, coffee-scented
ancho---in a marinade that is basically an ancho chile sauce. Use it in any
recipe that calls for a red sauce.
Marinade
7 ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
1/2 cup white vinegar
2 cups water, plus 1 or 2 tablespoons if needed
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup diced onion
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon dried oregano
2 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Paste
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons tomato paste
6 chicken breast halves, bone-in, skin removed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Chipotle-Corn Relish (see page 210), for accompaniment (optional)
Seared Chard (see page 132), for accompaniment (optional)
Do Ahead---The marinade and the paste can be made 2 to 3 days ahead and kept,
tightly covered, in the refrigerator.
For the marinade: In a heavy skillet over medium-high heat, toast the chiles
until soft and brown, turning frequently to avoid scorching, 2 to 3 minutes.
Transfer the toasted chiles to a saucepan and add the vinegar and 1 cup of the
water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer 10 minutes to soften the
chiles. Transfer the chiles and liquid to a blender and puree until a smooth
paste is formed, adding 1 or 2 tablespoons of water, if necessary. Set aside.
Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat; add the onions and
saute until deep golden brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the garlic, cumin,
oregano, salt, and pepper; cook another minute. Add the reserved Chile paste
and saute 2 to 3 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the remaining cup of water,
bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer 10 minutes. Remove half of the
sauce from the par and put into a bowl to cool (this will be the marinade).
For the paste: In a small bowl, mix together the brown sugar, orange and lemon
juices, and tomato paste. Add to the remaining sauce in the pan and cook the
mixture for another 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.
Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper to taste. Coat the breasts
generously with the cooled ancho marinade and put in a glas dish or heavy
plastic bag; refrigerate and allow to marinate 2 to 4 hours or overnight.
Remove the breasts from the refrigerator. Preheat a broiler. Place the breasts
directly on a baking sheet under the broiler; sear about 1 minute on each
side. Brush with the ancho paste. Preheat an oven t0 350°. Bake until the
juices run clear, another 15 to 20 minutes, turning frequently and brushing
with additional ancho paste. Remove from the oven. Place a chicken breast on
each of 6 plates. Serve immediately with chiplote-corn relish and seared
chard, if desired.
South of the Border Chocolate Cookies
Makes about 6o cookies These are addictive and easy to make, and the dough
keeps in the refrigerator up to a day ahead, ready
to bake and serve. if you want larger or smaller cookies, adjust the diameter
of the dough cylinder, but also remember to
adjust the cooking time.
Do Ahead: The cookies can be made up to 3 days ahead of time and stored in an
airtight container or frozen, tightly wrapped,
for up to 1 month.
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup unsweetened Dutch process cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon ancho chile powder or chile powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
3/4 cup sugar
1 large egg
2 tablespoons sugar mixed with 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
Sift together the flour, cocoa, chile powder, and salt over a piece of waxed
paper. Set aside.
With an electric mixer, beat the butter in a large bowl until creamy, about 1
minute. Add the sugar and beat until the
mixture is light in color, 3 to 4 minutes more. Scrape down the sides of the
bowl; beat in the egg. Gradually add the
flour-cocoa mixture to the butter mixture and beat until well mixed.
Divide the dough in half and set each half on its own 18-inch-long piece of
plastic wrap. Form both pieces of dough into
cylinders approximately 1112 inches in diameter, using the plastic wrap as a
guide. Wrap tightly and refrigerate until firm,
at least 2 hours. Or, rolls can be frozen at this point for up to 2 weeks.
Preheat an oven to 350°. Using a sharp knife, slice each cylinder into
1/4-inch slices; place the slices on ungreased baking
sheets and bake until set, about 10 minutes. Remove the baking sheets from the
oven and let the cookies cool a few minutes.
Sprinkle the baked cookies with the cinnamon-sugar mixture. With a spatula,
transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely.
Be sure to sprinkle on the cinnamon-sugar topping while the cookies are
still hot or the mixture won't stick.
Good Cooking can attest to this recipe by Chef Rubin. Chef John V. is a
friend of his and has enjoyed his cooking for years. The recipe takes
some time to prepare but it's worth the time and energy---it's great!
Southwestern Barbecue Paella
Lenard Ruin
Serves 4
This labor of love will be well worth it when you sit down to the table. If it
looks too daunting, make the rice base and add whatever seafood, poultry, or
meat components you like. Or invite friends over and make it a group effort.
Many of the elements can be prepared ahead, so make a timetable and start
grilling.
Corn
1 ear corn in the husk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon chile powder
1/2teaspoon ground cumin Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Mushrooms
2 portobello mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 1 chorizo sausage link cactus pads
4 prickly pear cactus pads (nopales) or 4 (3 x'/2-inch) slices zucchini
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Cactus pads
4 prickly pear cactus pads
(nopales) or 4 (3x1/2-inch) slices of zuchini
1 tablespoon olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Do Ahead---The link chorizo, mushrooms, peppers, and chiles can be prepared a
day ahead and refrigerated. The marinade for the chicken and the sauce for the
ribs can be made up to 2 days ahead, covered, and refrigerated.
Prepare a barbecue grill.
For the corn: Pull back the layers of husk on the corn and remove the silk. In
a small bowl, combine the melted butter, chili powder, cumin, salt, and
pepper. Rub the corn kernels with the butter mixture and fold the husk back
around the corn. Tie at the top with kitchen string. Soak the corn in cold
water for about 8 minutes so that it doesn't burn when grilled. Remove from
the water, pat dry, and cook over hot coals, turning often, until done, about
20 minutes. Remove from the heat. Shuck and cut in half lengthwise; then cut
in half crosswise into quarters.
For the mushrooms: Cut the stems off the mushrooms and remove the gills on the
underside by gently scraping with the edge of a small knife. Rub the mushrooms
with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and place, top side down, on the hot grill.
Cook for a few minutes and turn over; cook for 2 minutes more and turn over
again. Season with salt and pepper to taste and cook until the mushrooms
soften and they begin to seep liquid, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat
and sprinkle with balsamic vinegar and the remaining tablespoon olive oil. Let
cool and cut into fourths.
Rice base
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup finely chopped onions
1/4 cup finely chopped garlic
1 cup diced tomatoes
1 cup bulk chorizo sausage
1 teaspoon saffron threads
4 jumbo shrimp (15 per pound), peeled and deveined
1 1/2 cups Texmati rice
2 1/2 cups chicken stock, heated to a simmer
1 cup cooked black beans
1 cup green peas
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 Green Lip mussels
4 littleneck clams
4 Marinated Chicken thighs (see page 93)
Barbecued Beef Short Ribs (see page 84)
2 red bell peppers, roasted, seeded, peeled, and diced
2 poblano chiles, roasted, seeded, peeled, and diced
1/4 cup finely chopped cilantro
For the chorizo sausage link: Bring a medium pot of water to a boil over high
heat. Add the sausage link, reduce the heat, and simmer until the sausage is
firm, about 15 minutes. Grill the sausage until crispy, turning frequently so
it cooks evenly without burning, about 10 minutes. Cool and slice into 4
diagonal pieces.
For the cactus pads: Trim around the outside edge of the cactus pads with a
small knife, then gently slide the knife flat across each side of the pads to
remove spines. Rub the cleaned pads (or zucchini) with the olive oil and cook
on the hot grill for 3 minutes on each side (they should be softened but still
slightly crunchy). Season with salt and pepper to taste.
For the rice base: Heat the olive oil in a paella pan, casuela, or large
skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onions and garlic and cook until
lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, until
they dissolve into the onions and garlic, about 10 minutes more. Add the bulk
chorizo and cook 2 minutes; add the saffron and stir well. Scrape ingredients
aside to make room on the bottom of the pan for the shrimp; cook the shrimp 1
minute, turn over and cook for another minute. Stir the shrimp into the other
ingredients in the pan and cook an additional minute. Remove the shrimp and
set aside (they should be about three-fourths cooked). Add the rice and stir
for about 2 minutes. Add 1 cup of the hot stock and bring to a boil; reduce
the heat and simmer. Stir the rice every 5 minutes, adding more stock a little
at a time as it is absorbed, until the rice is thoroughly cooked, about 20
minutes from the time it begins to simmer. Add the black beans, peas, and
cilantro. Stir well and season with salt and pepper to taste. Arrange the
reserved shrimp, corn, portobellos, cactus pads (or zucchini), chorizo slices,
mussels, and clams as desired over the top of the rice, leaving enough room
for the chicken and ribs. Cover the pan and cook over medium heat until the
clams and mussels open up and all ingredients are hot, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove
the hot chicken and ribs from the barbecue grill and add to the paella.
Scatter the red bell peppers, poblano chiles, and cilantro over all. Bring the
paella pan to the table and divide among 4 large plates.
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