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Goodcooking.com Cookbook Review---
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Title: Tapas
Author:
Penelope Casas
247 pages; Hardcover Photography---Color
Alfred Knoff, NY NY, 2007
Reviewed Greg Goldsmith, for Good Cooking, Inc. March 2007 |
Who among us doesn’t desire to be hip and trendy once in a while?
Who among us wouldn’t be happy to achieve such a status with a
little bit less effort?
Enter Penelope Casas.
The new edition of Casas’ book Tapas allows those of us who desire
to entertain, but no longer have the luxury of spending all day in
the kitchen, to create some flashy appetizers and attractive main
courses without having to bring in hired help.
The trendy Spanish bar snacks, first introduced to the states more
than twenty years ago, have never been more popular. Ranging from
simple marinated mushrooms to the layers of shrimp in phyllo dough
with soy mayonnaise, tapas are perfect to share with good wine and
good conversation. Casas, a noted master of the cuisine who has
traveled Spain to seek out the finest and most authentic recipes,
presents the updated version of her 1985 book with fifty new
recipes. Her well-thought out introduction is still pertinent
today, possessing the background necessary for a novice to get
started and sufficient depth for someone already versed in Spanish
cuisine. Simple and containing only a few color photographs, Casas
harkens to a time when cookbooks were full of recipes.
I spent several nights cooking and creating tapas for friends,
trying to achieve the hip and trendy status that I normally find
so elusive. Conveniently, the recipes in Tapas are divided based
on their style (e.g. with or without sauce) and then organized by
main ingredient (e.g. salad or fish) within a section. Thanks to
ingredients, cookware, and menu appendices, my trip to the grocery
store was painless. Recipes with advance preparation such as an
overnight marinade are clearly designated, and recipes with
last-minute preparation have their own section in the book.
How did the food turn out? We especially loved the quick concept
of chorizo ‘lollipops,” where crunchy caramel gave way to the
spicy sausage. The mussels and shrimp in avocado vinaigrette were
easily prepared and had a layering of wonderful flavors. The goat
cheese, piquillo pepper, and honey canapé was a delight with the
Spanish cheese Monte Enebro. All this is not to say that the book
doesn’t contain more involved recipes as well, in fact, some may
be rather overambitious for the average home cook. Try the fried
beer-marinated wings with salsa brava if you are looking for
something with a little more work.
Tapas provided great food, with well-written recipes for any home
cook on any occasion. But be forewarned, traditional Spanish tapas
doesn’t include dessert. Then again, my guests were too full
anyway.
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Recipes tested---
"Chupa Chups" de chori zo (CHORIZO "LOLLIPOPS")
l came across this fascinating tapa at Els Fogons de
Can Llaudes restaurant set in a centuries-old chapel
on the main square of the delightful Catalan town of
Besalu. Iconoclastic chef Jaume Sole only seats those
with reservations; there is only one seating and just
4 tables. The chorizo on the tasting menu arrived at
the table speared on a stick, as if it were a
lollipop, and coated with crackling sugar. I've come
across the combination of chorizo with honey or sugar
before, but never presented in such a fanciful manner.
Don't prepare these more than an hour or so in advance
or the sugar coating may soften. To keep the lollipops
from touching anything while the sugar hardens, I like
to spear the lollipops into a bread loaf and leave
them there for a spectacular presentation. MAKES 16
3 ounces chorizo, preferably imported, skin removed,
cut in 3/s-inch slices '/z cup sugar
2 tablespoons water A long loaf of bread
Spear the chorizo slices vertically onto 4-6-inch
wooden skewers, as if it they were lollipops, one
slice of chorizo per stick.
To make the candied sugar, stir the sugar and water in
a heavy small saucepan over medium heat until the
sugar dissolves. Raise the heat and boil without
stirring until the mixture turns light amber,
occasionally brushing down pan sides with a wet pastry
brush and swirling pan, about 6 minutes. Remove from
heat and, holding the chorizo by the skewer, quickly
dip it in the sugar and spear into the bread at an
angle, being careful not to drip the hot sugar on your
hands. Cool, snap off any sugar drippings, and present
the chorizo on a tray, speared into the bread.
Mussels and Shrimp in Avocado Vinalgrette (ME)ILLONES
Y GAMBAS EN VINAGRETA DE AGUACATE)
This tapa comes under the category of nueva cocina
vasca-"nouvelle" Basque cuisine-and was found at an
attractive restaurant in Madrid called Restaurante
Basque.
SERVES 4
1 dozen medium mussels
1 slice lemon
8 large shrimp, unshelled
Shredded lettuce
Minced parsley
DRESSING
A 1-pound avocado
2 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon Dijon-style mustard
1 teaspoon grated onion
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
Place the mussels in a skillet with %z cup water and
the lemon slice. Bring to a boil and remove the
mussels as they open. Cool. Discard the shells and, to
keep the mussels moist, place them in a bowl with a
little of the liquid in which they have cooked. Cook
the shrimp in the remaining mussel liquid for a minute
or two. Cool and shell.
To prepare the dressing, peel the avocado and remove
the pit. Cut the avocado in pieces and place in a
processor with the lemon juice. Blend until smooth.
Gradually add the olive oil. Season very well with
salt and pepper and add the mustard, onion, and red
pepper. [May be prepared ahead]
Arrange the mussels and shrimp attractively on a bed
of shredded lettuce. Cover with the avocado dressing,
and sprinkle with parsley. Serve cold or at room
temperature.
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