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The Chinese Cookbook

The Chinese Cookbook, Craig Claiborne and Virginia Lee; JB Lippincott Co., Philadelphia & New York, 1972

Although Virginia Lee came to the United States in 1967 with no intention of writing a cookbook or teaching Chinese cooking, she was doing both within four years. Soon after being interviewed by Craig Claiborne for an article in The New York Times, she decided to start teaching Chinese cooking. She was promptly inundated with dozens of applications from prospective students, including one from Mr. Claiborne.

Mrs. Lee taught hundreds of New Yorkers the basic elements of Chinese cuisine and emphasized methods by which dishes were prepared exactly as they would be in China. She taught only 10 students at a time, and some signed up for her classes again and again. In the name of authenticity, she even cured her own ham on a window ledge of her apartment. ''Most Chinese chefs use Smithfield ham,'' she explained in a 1970 New York Times interview, ''but I think it's too smoky.''

I am a really good cook of Chinese cuisine, mostly because of this book. Yes there are other Chinese cookbooks that I reference, but none more than this one that was published in 1972. I wasn't introduced to Chinese cooking until my early twenties, as Chinese restaurants didn't exist in the area where I grew up. When I was, it was love at first bite! Now armed with the desire to learn more I went on a quest to eat in as many Chinese restaurants as I could. I quickly found out that most were not very good and for the most part Americanized. Exceptions did exist, like Shun Lee Palace in New York, the Mandarin in San Francisco, Joyce Chen in Cambridge Massachusetts and a few others that were often located in cities with substantial Chinese populations.

What put me over the top was actually going to Hong Kong and then spending 16 days traveling in China and eating in various restaurants from small 30 seat mom and pop style restaurants to the 3,000 seat Guangzhou Restaurant and to royal 20 course banquets. I saw the real deal and vowed that I had to master it! And that's where this cookbook played and still plays a big role. As said above, Virginia wrote this book by emphasizing methods by which dishes were prepared exactly as they would be in China.

If you are serious about cooking really good Chinese dishes at home, then get yourself a copy of this masterpiece!!!

This is one of the best American Chinese cookbooks ever written!

Twice-Cooked Pork
Yield: 6 to 8 servings

2 pounds fresh, lean, unsalted, boneless bacon with rind on (pork belly)*
4 to 6 fresh red or green long hot or sweet peppers*
4 to 6 cloves garlic, flattened but not chopped
3 tablespoons chili paste with garlic (Szechwan paste)*
1 1/2 tablespoons bean sauce*
2 teaspoons sugar
1 tablespoon dry sherry or shao hsing wine*
1/4 teaspoon monosodium glutamate (optional)
1 cup peanut, vegetable, or corn oil
3 scallions, green part included, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths

*Available in Chinese markets and by mail order, For more information see Chapter XI,

1. Place the pork in a kettle and add water to cover to a depth of 1 to 2 inches above the pork. Cover and simmer 1 hour, or until the meat is tender when pierced with a fork or chopsticks. Drain and let cool.
2. Core and seed the peppers, then cut into 1-inch cubes or into thin strips. Combine with the garlic.
3. Combine the chili paste with the bean sauce, sugar, wine, and monosodium glutamate. Set aside.
4. Slice the meat down through the rind wafer thin, 1/8 inch thick or less, (This is easier if the meat is partially frozen.)
5. Heat the oil in a wok or skillet, and when it is hot add the pork slices, Have a cover ready to use if necessary, because the meat tends to sputter and splatter. Cook, stirring, 7 to 8 minutes. Drain in a sieve-lined bowl and save the oil.
6. Add 2 tablespoons of the reserved oil to the pan and peppers and garlic. Cook, stirring about 1 minute. Drain.
7. Add about 1/4 cup of the oil to the pan and add the sauce. Cook stirring, about 45 seconds. Add the pork, pepper and garlic and cook, stirring, just to heat thoroughly. Add the scallions, stir, and serve without cooking more than a few seconds.